Ageing is a natural process in life and should be accepted and embraced as a part of nature’s life cycle. As we age, we may grow in awareness, wisdom, poise and other notable traits; however, our bodies and skin are certain to accumulate and show the tests of time. The reality is, that as we age, our skin also ages and changes to become more dry, dehydrated and rough feel; wrinkled, slack and sagging; thin and more transparent; fragile and more sensitive/ prone to irritation.
The science behind skin ageing shows that fat is lost below the skin in the face, specifically the cheeks, chin, nose, eye area and temples, which causes the skin to appear wrinkled and loose. Bone and cartilage loss causes the face to appear more skeletal-like, and the bony structures may appear more accentuated. How quickly and pronounced this occurs, depends on factors such as:
Genetics
Lifestyle and environmental factors, including exposure to UV and pollution
Mechanical ageing caused by muscle movements like smiling and frowning.
5 Main Causes of Aging skin
Skin ageing is classified into two categories. The first is intrinsic ageing - when the ageing of the skin is natural or chronological. The second is extrinsic ageing caused by external physical, environmental and chemical factors such as exposure to UV radiation. Natural chronological ageing contributes to the skin's appearance through a natural loss of subcutaneous tissues and supports and a decline in sebum production. Skin cells take longer to regenerate. Diminished sex hormones lead to wrinkling, epidermal atrophy, dryness, loss of elasticity and collagen breakdown. Other, more-controllable, extrinsic factors will also actively contribute and accelerate skin ageing and mature skin appearance: UV and environmental exposures – sunlight, or ultraviolet radiation accelerate skin ageing causing premature wrinkles and ‘sun spots’, also referred to as age spots, liver spots or solar lentigo. This process is known as photo-ageing. As skin ages, it thins, loses moisture due to trans-epidermal water loss, and becomes more dry and dehydrated. This is a normal process; however, it may be accelerated or intensified due to UV damage. Furthermore, exposure to environmental pollutants, synthetic toxins and carcinogens take a toll on skin’s health and appearance, as do everyday environmental elements such as wind, cold, rain and snow.
Other variables which make changes in the skin are sleep position and facial movement. Gravity induces the looseness and fullness under the cheeks and jaw (double chin), longer ear lobes and drooping of the eyebrows and eyelids if the skin loses its elasticity for some reason. Lines become more noticeable after the skin begins losing its elasticity by making facial gestures (usually when people reach their 30s and 40s). Lines may appear on the skin above the nose vertically, or the temples, on the forehead horizontally, upper cheeks and around the mouth in small curved lines.
A bad diet or lifestyle habits lead to premature skin ageing. Not drinking enough water, poor dietary choices, poor hygiene practices, smoking, unnecessary stress, lack of physical exercise, and lack of regular sleep/insomnia are reasons for extrinsic ageing.
Dehydration – chronic dehydration of skin tissues results in dry skin, which results in more rapid ageing and wrinkling of the skin. Every skin type needs constant hydration, even oily skin, so it is important to find which hydrating emollients, occlusive, and humectants work best for your skin. Keep the body hydrated by drinking 8-10 glasses of water daily, and avoid too much caffeine and processed sugars which can be dehydrating.
Overuse of chemicals/synthetics/detergents that deprive the skin of the natural oils, fats and nutrients required to protect and keep the skin moisturised, conditioned and safe.
How to Prevent Aging Skin
Protect skin from UV radiation and environmental elements – using a broad-spectrum, high-level SPF (sun protection factor) to protect from ultraviolet sunlight damage, and limit or shade yourself from long periods of sun exposure. Ensure your diet is rich in antioxidants, and apply antioxidants topically to counter environmental free-radical damage to cells.
Follow a simple skincare regime (earlier the better) – which hydrates, balances, nourishes and gently cares for the skin. It’s best to cleanse with a gentle and safe ingredient cleanser that will not kill the skin's natural oils and ruin its delicate balance. Some people find that incorporating regular gentle exfoliation (one to two times per week, at most), keeps skin looking renewed, fresh and glowing.
Choose the right oils/botanicals – The right oils will optimize the nutrition, health and look of your skin, by hydrating, balancing, and conditioning skin, imparting vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, and protecting antioxidants. Some of the properties to look for in oils for mature and ageing skin are: Emollient - These improve the skin's flexibility and smoothness, and provide the skin and mucous membranes with a secondary soothing effect. Occlusive - form a barrier on the skin to protect skin from trans-epidermal water loss. Astringent - work to contract, firm and tone skin, minimizing the appearance of slack, sagging skin. Cytophylactic - regenerate skin by promoting cell turnover. Antioxidant - help protect again free radical damage (look for oils with high levels of Tocopherols, Polyphenols or Carotenoids) Treat with High Performance, Anti-Aging Ingredients - With the help of some high-performance ingredients, some degree of reversing skin ageing and loss is possible. Retinol (vitamin A) present in rose seed oil, for example, minimizes the appearance of wrinkles, improves elasticity, reduces sun damage and slows the skin's collagen breakdown. Sea buckthorn is a wealthy source of several antioxidants such as tocopherols, flavonoids and carotenoids, and its capacity to increase skin elasticity has also been confirmed by scientific studies.
Aim for healthy lifestyle choices – drink 8-10 glasses of water daily to keep hydrated, eat a diet consisting of a wide array of fruits, vegetables and healthy plant fats and oils, follow a regular sleep pattern and fitness routine to feel balanced and reduce the impact of stress on the body.
Ingredients for anti-ageing
Problem: Drier/rough skin Solution: Moisturize, hydrate and smooth skin Function and Ingredient examples: - Emollient (smooth and soften skin) - Carrier Oils, e.g. Avocado, Macadamia, Jojoba, Camellia, Sea Buckthorn Oils - Humectant (attract water and bind it to the skin) - Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Panthenol (provitamin B5), Olive Squalane - Occlusive (form a barrier on the skin to protect skin from trans-epidermal water loss) – Shea Butter, Jojoba Oil - Hydrating - Water, Flower Waters, NMFs (Natural Moisturizing Factors), e.g. Sodium PCA, Ceramides, Hyaluronic Acid, Urea, Linoleic Acid, Glycerin.
Problem: Damage from sun, environmental and lifestyle factors (free radical damage) Solution: Counteracts damage from the sun, environmental and lifestyle factors (free radical damage) Function and Ingredient examples: Anti-oxidants - Vitamin E, Rosemary Extract Carrier Oils such as Pomegranate, Raspberry Seed, Sea Buckthorn, Olive Oil.
Problem: Fine lines and wrinkles Solution: Reduced appearance of fine lines/ wrinkles Function and Ingredient examples: Extracts which promote collagen production, light-reflecting particles - Alpinia Leaf, Mallotus Bark, Hibiscus Extracts and Vegetable collagen Light-reflecting particles - Mica Plump skin - Hyaluronic Acid
Problem: Loss of skin firmness and tone (saggy skin) Solution: Improve firmness and tone Function and Ingredient example: Astringent Improved elasticity - Frankincense essential oil Hazelnut Oil
Problem: Dull complexion Solution: Natural skin glow Function and Ingredient examples: Extracts that increase blood circulation and promote skin brightening - Ginseng / Turmeric root / Hibiscus / Liquorice extracts
Problem: Skin cell regeneration/ turnover slows down Solution: Speeds up skin cell regeneration/ turnover Function and Ingredient examples: Cytophylactic - Frankincense Essential Oils, AHAs, e.g. Multifruit Extract
Problem: Age spots Solution: Reduce the appearance of age spots Function and Ingredient examples: Skin lightening -Vitamins C/ Vitamin B3 Niacinamide, Kojic acid - Rosemary/ Alpinia root/ Blue Elderberry extracts (antioxidant effects)
Facial Oil for Aging Skin
A simple DIY formulation of an anhydrous facial oil will improve the appearance of mature and ageing skin and hydrate, enhance elasticity, tighten and tone, boost skin cell regeneration, and provide a rich source of antioxidants.
Carrier Oils:
Jojoba Oil (45 gms) – It is a thin, easily absorbed oil close to the skin's natural sebum. Balancing and has anti-inflammatory qualities. Best occlusive vegetable oil as it forms a thin layer on the skin that prevents the loss of trans-epidermal water helps the skin preserve moisture, stays hydrated, lubricated, soft and supple.
Hazelnut Oil (20 gms) – It is a light and easily absorbed oil. It acts like astringent.
Olive squalene (18gms) - It feels very light and absorbs easily, penetrates deeply to hydrate, enhances elasticity, encourages cell regeneration by drawing water into the skin from the atmosphere while offering moisturizing qualities.
Raspberry Seed (15gms) – Due to the content of elegiac acid (an antioxidant) which reduces collagen destruction and inflammatory response. It has anti-ageing advantages, which are the key causes of wrinkles. It protects against ultraviolet radiation as well. It is a rich source of vitamin E and very high phytosterol levels, which can help minimize transepidermal water loss, keeping the skin hydrated.
Frankincense Essential Oil (1gm) –It is an astringent and cytophylactic; thus promoting cell regeneration and smoothing wrinkles and fine lines. It tightens and tones the skin.
Vitamin E Oil (1gm) – An antioxidant
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