Waxes come into the category of long-chain non-polar lipids. Waxes are tougher and less oily than fats and oils; they are tolerant to microbial degradation, oxidation and humidity.
Waxes are often distinguished by their semi-solid to solid consistency and the fatty surface feels. Many animals produce waxes while plants become water-resistant to shield themselves from heat and cold, preventing water from clinging to surfaces. The composition of wax is based not only on the organisms but also on the plants' and animals' geographic regions. Owing to their hydrophobic nature, which serves as coatings, waxes benefit both plants and animals.
From a chemical perspective, Waxes are a union of hydrocarbons and fatty esters ( an ester of fatty alcohol and fatty acid).
Waxes are a versatile class of organic compounds that are extensively used for thickening formulations in personal care products, altering skin feeling with its emollient and protective characteristics such as enhancing SPF and keeping the formulations waterproof. Waxes provide skincare and cosmetics with stability and improve their viscosity and consistency.
Waxes can be classified into 4 types:
Natural Wax
Typically, natural waxes are fatty acid esters and long-chain alcohols.
Natural Wax: Animal and Plant – They can be liquid, semi-solid, and solid at room temperature.
Solid waxes – Beeswax, Cocoa butter
Semi-Solid waxes – Lanolin, Mawrah butter
Liquid waxes – Spermaceti, Jojoba oil
Animal wax
Animal wax esters come from a combination of fatty alcohols and carboxylic acids.
Beeswax - INCI Name – Cera Alba Melting point – 61-66 °C It is considered the best known and the most natural animal wax as hard-working female worker bees make it. A major component of beeswax, which bees use to make honeycombs, is ester myricyl palmitate. It remains a gorgeous addition to our cosmetic formulations and most widely used in cosmetics and other daily-use products. However, it’s coming into notice that the cosmetic companies are switching to plant waxes, a.k.a vegan waxes, to protect our lovely bees. If you use beeswax for your own crafts, it would be great to buy it from a local beekeeper whose beekeeping operations are ethical, and you can see it first-hand. We can do this much for our bees.
Shellac-Wax - INCI Name – Shellac Cera Melting point – 61-65 °C Shellac-wax is a resin found in the forests of Thailand and India secreted by the female lac bug on trees. It is processed after extraction from tress and sold as dry flakes. Applications: Cosmetics, Pharmaceuticals, Wood Finishing, Electrical Industry, Printing Ink, Leather & Foot Wear Industry, Confectionary Glazes, and Fruit Coating, Cosmetic Paper Varnish, Rubber Industry, Photography Industry, Automobile Industry, Grinding Wheels, Paint Industry, etc.,
Spermaceti - It is a liquid wax (at room temperature) found in large quantities in the oil of the head of a sperm whale. The Crystallization method is used to extract Spermaceti wax from the spermaceti oil. Cetyl palmitate, a fatty acid ester, and fatty alcohol is its key constituent. It is used in cosmetics as a thickener and emollient. Spermaceti is a scarce product derived from bottlenose or sperm whale heads, so it is not commonly available commercially. The spermaceti wax manufacturers add several other chemicals, such as cetyl ester, with similar properties (as spermaceti wax has). In quality wax candles, soaps, industrial lubricants, leatherworking, textiles, and pharmaceuticals, Spermaceti wax is used. Besides, it is often used in the food industry as a glazing or coating agent to give a shiny appearance and a protective coating.
Lanolin - In cosmetics, it is extensively used to contain wool wax that comes from domestic sheep breeds raised specifically for their wool. The purified wool wax originates from the sheep's secretion of the sebum gland. By putting sheep's wool through a centrifuge machine which separates the oil from other waste, lanolin oil is extracted. No harm to sheep is caused by the extraction of lanolin since the procedure is carried out after shearing the sheep. Wool wax is also permissible for use in cold creams because it serves as a barrier. It contains cholesterol that provides the skin with an essential protective feature. Without even realizing it, you might be using products containing lanolin oil, such as lipsticks, lip balm, creams, and lanolin oil for bruised nipples, etc.
As we have been talking and using the word “Ester” so let’s understand what is ester?
Ester can be discovered all over the natural world. An ester is a compound formed by a condensation reaction between an alcohol and an organic acid. The biochemical category of compounds called waxes, phospholipids, and triglycerides have the ester as a primarily essential functional group. They are called oleochemicals, meaning that they are chemicals that are naturally derived rather than synthetic.
Which ester is formed will be determined by the exact combination of the alcohol form and the carboxylic acid type. For example, when alcohol is used in a fatty acid combination, the result is a fatty acid ester.
Esters can be quite effective for the skin. They are emollients, which means they hydrate the skin's surface, soften and smooth it. To enhance the texture of the skin, lotions and creams are concentrated on emollients as their active ingredients. In many skincare products, esters are used to feel less sticky on the skin than many other emollients, making them a preferred alternative.
Wax esters are a major component of skincare formulation since human sebaceous glands comprise 25 % of wax esters, often consisting of long-chained alcohols and long-chained fatty acids.
Esters are commonly used in several food items by the food industry to improve flavor and enhance the efficacy of certain food products, such as low-fat liquid without the normal amount of fat, which may lack adequate viscosity.
Plant Wax
These waxes are a mixture of fatty esters and hydrocarbons obtained from leaves, fruits, plants, and peels and removed by de-waxing from the plant oils. Since many people dislike the usual waxy smell, the wax goes through a filtering and deodorizing process. The wax is removed or extracted through physical filtration, and this process is called de-waxing. Plants waxes are obtained from blends of long-chain hydrocarbons containing functional groups such as fatty acids, alkanes, diols, ketones, alcohols, and aldehydes.
9 common types of plant wax that are used in cosmetics:
Almond Wax – INCI Name – Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis oil & hydrogenated vegetable oil Derived from – Almond oil Melting point – 65 °C Extraction method – chemical-free hydrogenation process using the unsaponifiable matter of Almond oil Color, smell & texture – Pale Yellow, odorless and hard Usage – It’s a great replacement for beeswax in your vegan products. Perfect for lip balms, body butter, and lotion bars. Almond wax is also effective in nail care products and can be used in candles too.
Rice bran wax - INCI Name – Oryza Sativa Bran Cera Derived from – Rice Bran Melting point – 77-85°C Extraction Method – Mechanically extracted from the de-oiled cake of rice bran. Color, smell & texture – Light yellow, a mild background odor & hard natural wax Usage –In lipstick, lip balm, and other oil-based systems, it is especially efficient in decreasing syneresis. Other common applications include a binging agent, a plasticizer and a standalone gelling agent, and a thickening agent.
Carnuba wax – INCI Name – Copernicia Cerifera (Carnuba) Wax Derived from – Brazilian Palm Tree Melting point – 82-86 °C Extraction Method – The tree exudes wax on its leaves through the pores and is sun-dried and thrashed mechanically to separate the leaf from the wax. Color, smell, and texture – Ranges from a dark brown to pale yellow dependent on age and purity, a powerful scent, tough, and brilliant gloss. Usage – It is called “Queen of Wax.” It promotes the retention of oil, is a reliable co-emulsifying agent, and is therefore extremely efficient in creams and lotions as a viscosity creator. Carnauba Wax serves to raise the melting point, increase viscosity, and intensify the gel, which assists in pigment dispersion while making gels such as lipsticks and lip balms. Many vegetable and mineral waxes and a wide range of natural and synthetic resins are compatible with it. Hence, for natural cosmetic and personal care applications, these properties make Carnauba wax attractive.
Candelilla wax – INCI Name – Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Derived from – Candelilla shrub grows naturally, native to Northern Mexico. Melting point – 65-70 °C Extraction method – The wax rises to the surface and is skimmed off by boiling shrubs and mechanically filtered to remove water and grime. Color, smell & texture – Yellowish brown, distinctive, mild, aromatic & hard, and firm, flaky bits. Usage – Candelilla functions as a synthetic-free emollient and nourishing skin conditioner, a thickening and hardening agent. Not only is it effective for binding ingredients, but it is also healthy for the skin due to the specific consistency of this wax. It was also found to soothe the skin and soften it. It is used in the manufacture of lipsticks, hair preparations, and body lotions.
Sunflower Wax – INCI Name – Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax Melting point – 77 °C Derived from – Sunflower oil Extraction Method – Winterization of sunflower oil Color, smell & texture – Light in color, very low odor & hard, crystalline structure Usage –In sticks and emulsions, it functions as a powerful consistency modifier. In certain formulations, it is used as an alternative to rice bran wax, carnauba wax, and candelilla wax. Formulators use this wax in lipstick, mascara, decorative cosmetics, lip balm, emulsion, and candle applications. Sunflower Wax is used as an emollient, film-forming, and lubricity, also as a thickener, and to enhance oil binding.
Palm Wax – Palm berries are the source of this wax. Palm wax is a 100% natural, biodegradable and sustainable resource. Melting Point – 140 °F Derived from – Palm berries Extraction method – After removing the seed from the palm fruit, the soft outer level is steamed and pressed to extract palm oil, purified, and wax is recovered. No chemicals are used to produce Palm wax from beginning to end. Color, smell & texture – Pink, natural palm scent & hard, brittle wax Applications – Majorly used for making wonderful palm wax Candles & Industrial Purposes.
Berry Wax – INCI name – Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera Melting point – 48-54°C Derived from – The berries of Rhus verniciflua Extraction method – By boiling the skin of the fruit Color, smell & Texture – Cream white, has a mild and natural odor & a very silky and soft texture. Application – It is used both for hair care and skin care formulations and for stabilizing emulsions. This wax is not ideal as a stand-alone wax because of its soft texture and low melting point. It is soft and silky in consistency and contains mainly esters. It enhances the break resistance in eye and lip pencils. It also regulates the lipid effect in lipsticks and lipgloss. Its primary applications are in pencil production.
Myrica fruit wax – INCI Name – Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax Melting point – 45-55 °C Derived from – From bayberry fruit peels Extraction method is derived from the waxy coating found on the Chinese lacquer tree berries, which are native to China. Colour, smell & texture – Yellow to off white, a pleasant scent & a very nice and smooth texture Application – It is a naturally ‘Hydrogenated’ Oil but still solid. It is very popular as a direct replacement for Beeswax in Vegan products. Myrica wax reduces the stickiness and the 'greasy effect' of Emulsion based creams and Balm products. It can be produced as lip balms in a tube or even some stick items such as a facial balm, but it is not tough enough to use as a stand-alone lipstick wax.
Stearic Acid – It’s called an acid because this carboxyl group is called carboxylic acid. It’s found in most of our oils and butter and can be found in the human body in our muscles. Melting Point – 69-70 °C Derived from – Fats or vegetable oil Extraction Method - Through saponification of the triglycerides using hot water. The final mixture is then filtered. Color, smell & texture – White, Pungent & solid, waxy granules Application – It is used to manufacture products like ointments, lotions. It is also used as emulsifiers, lubricants, emollients, and so on. It effectively stabilizes, thickens and softens the formulation. It creates a cooling sensation when the moisturizer or ointment is applied to the skin.
Triglyceride Waxes
Saturated triglycerides or esters with alkyl chain lengths of C12-C30 are the most natural waxes. Fractionating or hydrogenating processed vegetable oils obtain triglyceride waxes with a chemical reaction to increase the melting point (to solidify liquid oil) and its shelf life, typically carried out over nickel or cadmium catalysts. The unsaturated to saturated alkyl chains are converted by this method. So, in one way, we can call triglyceride waxes as hydrogenated wax also. These ingredients, however, are not wax at all. You will also see that the words "cera" or "wax" do not appear in their INCI names.
The most popular hydrogenated waxes are:
Soy wax – INCI name: Hydrogenated Soybean oil - melting point: 66-72 °C
Jojoba wax – INCI Name: Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil - melting point: 65 °C To know more about Jojoba Oil, click here.
Apricot wax – INCI name: Hydrogenated Apricot oil – melting point: 66-72 °C. To know more about Apricot oil, click here.
Argan wax – INCI name: Hydrogenated Argan oil – melting point: 58-70 °C. To know more about Argan oil, click here.
Pistachio wax – INCI name: Hydrogenated of Pistachio oil- melting point – 50-70 °C
Castor wax – INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor oil – melting point – 88-85 °C To know more about castor oil, click here.
Hemp wax – INCI name: Hydrogenated Hemp Seed Oil – melting point – 65 °C To know more about Hemp Seed Oil, click here.
Olive wax – INCI name: Hydrogenated Olive oil - melting point - 58-66 °C To know more about Olive Oil, click here.
Rapeseed wax – INCI name: Hydrogenated Rapeseed oil - melting point - 52-56 °C
Avocado wax – INCI name: Hydrogenated Avocado Oil - the melting point is 60-70 °C To know more about Avocado Oil, click here.
FLORAL WAX
Typically, they are dark in color and are the by-product and manufactured waste of floral absolutes. After all the good stuff (the oil) is extracted, the rest (what’s left) is once more extracted using water, solvents, or alcohols. The product that is produced is sold as floral wax. In fact, it is called pseudo-waxes. These pseudo-waxes are extremely expensive.
Some floral waxes are as follows –
• Ylang Ylang Flower Wax – INCI name: Cananga Odorata Flower Cera
• Jasmine Flower Wax – INCI name: Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Cera
• Lavender Wax – INCI name: Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Cera
• Rose Flower Wax – INCI name: Rosa Damascene Flower Cera
• Mimosa Flower Wax – INCI name: Acacia decurrens Flower Cera
Petroleum derived wax
Petroleum is a natural liquid located under the surface of the earth that is extracted and refined into energy fuel. Petroleum is a fossil fuel, meaning that it has been formed by the decomposition of organic material over millennia. Petroleum is generated when large amounts of dead organisms are exposed to extreme heat and pressure, mainly protozoans and phytoplankton, below sedimentary rock.
Through oil exploration, petroleum is recovered. It is refined and segregated after it has been retrieved. It is refined into various kinds of fuels and petroleum products. Hydrocarbons with various molecular weights are found in petroleum.
Paraffin wax – INCI Name – Paraffin Melting point – 47-65 °C Derived from – petroleum, coal, or oil shale. A mixture of a straight chain of saturated hydrocarbon molecules and carbon atoms containing between C18 and C36. The process of solvent dewaxing is used to obtain wax at any stage in the refining process of petroleum. Further, it is refined by vacuum distillation. Color & texture – It is a type of colorless, solid synthetic. Application – Popular paraffin wax applications include lubrication, electrical insulation, etc. Pharmaceutical, Cosmetic: Cream, Ointment, Lotion, Crayons, Candle, etc.
Microcrystalline wax – INCI Name – Microcristallina Cera Melting point – 52 -102 °C Derived from – Refining of heavy distillates derived from the processing of lubricant oil. It is a special form of wax that is a part of the petroleum refining process. It is a by-product created by de-oiling petroleum. Due to saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons, it is composed of high molecular weight. Color & texture – It is generally darker, more viscous, denser, tackier, and more elastic than paraffin wax. The structure of a typical microcrystalline wax crystal is thin and small, making it more flexible than paraffin wax. In cosmetic formulations, it is broadly used. There are two categories of Microcrystalline waxes: => 'laminating' grades with a melting point of 140-175 F (60 - 80 °C) => 'hardening' grades with a melting point of approximately 175-200 F (80 - 93 °C). The color varies from brown to white in both grades, which depends on the degree of processing performed at the refinery stage. The end-use and preferred specification shall dictate whether or not the product will have its odor and color (usually starting as brown or dark yellow) which is normally eliminated by filtration or by hydro-treating the wax material. Microcrystalline wax is used as a viscosity agent, binder, and emollient in cosmetics and beauty products and is also considered as a substitution for paraffin wax. It is also used in candles, adhesives, corrugated boards, castings, tires, rubber, etc. To combine paraffin and microcrystalline waxes, refineries use blending facilities; this is common in the tire and rubber industries.
Synthetic Wax
They consist of long-chain hydrocarbons which lack functional groups.
Poly-ethylene wax - Through high-pressure polymerization of ethylene, polyethylene waxes are made. Highly derived, very stable molecular structures are being established (temperature, tension, UV light, chemicals). These final goods are very durable and do not yellow. There are many physical and chemical properties of poly-ethylene wax that make it ideal for many industrial applications. Millions of these waxes are manufactured annually and used in sealants and lubricants, insecticides, adhesives, tubes, films, laminates, paper coatings, plastic products, pencils, inks, auxiliary leather, and packaging. They are also used as food additives like chewing gum. Polyethylene wax can be either low-density poly-ethylene (LDPE) or high-density polyethylene (HDPE). The reason why the global market for poly-ethylene wax is set to grow more because of the following characteristics: - High melting point - High softening point - High chemical resistance - Excellent thermal stability - Perfect lubrication - Highly compatible with wax varieties - Perfect head resistance
Fischer-Tropsch (FT) - It is a synthetic wax formed by high-pressure polymerization of carbon monoxide, a technology used in emerging Gas to Liquid (GTL) natural gas projects. The hydrocarbon product of the FT reaction is distilled using melting points ranging from about 45 - 106oC to separate the mix into fuel products and waxes. Presently, FT waxes are commercially produced in Malaysia and South Africa.
Alpha olefin waxes - They are synthetically extracted via Ziegler-Natta catalyst from ethylene. They can also be used, such as hardness and melting point, for their physical properties. Lube oil additives, PVC lubricants, candles, oilfield chemicals, and personal care applications represent end-uses for this wax. This wax doesn’t have much layman information other than technical and confusion. If you have any easy to grasp information about this wax, please write below and give me and others a chance to learn about this wax.
Mineral Waxes
Whatever waxes come naturally from the earth, plants, and animals (directly or indirectly) are called mineral wax.
Ozokerite wax – INCI Name – Ozokerite Melting Point – 73-76 °C They are blends of branched and linear hydrocarbons found in lignite beds. It is also referred to as Earth Wax and is a naturally occurring mineraloid. This wax lacks a definite composition and crystalline structure; therefore, it is not considered a mineral. However, it falls under the Mineral Wax group. Formulators prefer properties like melt point, penetration, or gel strength which are essential to their formulation. They are non-hazardous, non-toxic to the skin, and non-irritating to the eyes. Ozokerite-wax is compatible with raw materials that are natural, mineral, and synthetic. Cosmetics, personal care, crayons, coatings, candles, industrial products, pharmaceuticals, sunscreen products, and inks are included in their use.
Ceresin wax – INCI Name – Ceresin Melting point – 54-102 °C It is a combination of linear and branched hydrocarbons that have been used in manufacturing and have a long history. This wax is derived from Ozokerite wax through the purifying process. The properties that are essential for the formulation make chemists choose this wax; melt point, penetration, or strength of a gel. They are non-hazardous, non-toxic to the skin and eyes, and non-irritating. Applications include personal care, crayons, cosmetics, candles, coatings, industrial, fruit & vegetable coatings, and pharmaceuticals.
Montan wax – INCI Name – Montan Cera Melting point – 81-85 °C It is also referred to as lignite wax or OP wax and is a hard wax acquired from solvent extraction of some lignite or brown coal forms. Its color varies from dark brown to light yellow when it is crude, and white when processed. It is used as a lubricant for molding paper and plastics, for producing car and shoe polishes, paints, and phonograph records. In-car polish, it is used by approximately one-third of total world production. Before, its primary use was producing carbon paper. Montan wax polishes enhance scuff-resistance, which enhances water repellence and offers high gloss.
Emulsifying Wax – INCI Name – Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate Melting Point – 50-60 °C Emulsifying wax is a cosmetic emulsifying ingredient and is often accompanied by the NF initials, suggesting that it complies with the "National Formulary" requirements. This wax is produced when a detergent (typically sodium dodecyl sulfate or polysorbate) is treated with a vegetable wax of some sort or a petroleum-based wax that helps to attach oil and water together into a smooth emulsion. It is a white, solid wax with a low fatty alcohol odor. Cetearyl Alcohol and a polyoxyethylene version of sorbitan fatty acid ester(a polysorbate) are found in Emulsifying Wax NF. If the emulsifying wax used (in cosmetic products) complies with the "National Formulary," the description 'Emulsifying wax NF' can be listed in the ingredient declaration. Silky and stable emulsions are formed by Emulsifying Wax. It offers several formulation options for certified organic creams and lotions. Applications – Pharmaceutical Cosmetic: Natural and Naturally derived Creams, Lotions, Balms, and much more.
Gel wax – Melting Point – 82 - 104 °C it is a clear rubbery substance, a blend consisting of mineral oil and polymer resin, capable of burning almost twice the duration of paraffin wax candles. 95% mineral oil and 5% polymer resin are the percentage of these two elements, roughly in this wax. Since the mineral oil is too loose in its original form, this is where the polymer resin comes into play. To thicken the mineral oil, this resin is used to make it the clear, slow-burning wax as we know it to be. Applications – Majorly used in Manufacturing of Candles & Industrial purpose.
Peat Wax – Melting Point – 83 °C It is a dark waxy material that is extracted using organic solvents from peat. It is very similar to the Montan wax extracted from coal and thus has equivalent properties and uses. Usually, a combination of three main ingredients, namely asphalt, resins, and wax, produces a raw peat wax. Applications – Traditionally, peat has been used for cooking, and domestic heating in many nations, including Ireland and Scotland, and peat is stacked in rural areas to dry. For this reason, it is still harvested in countries such as Ireland and Finland on an industrial scale. In industry, its insulating properties make it useful.
The above-provided information is purely based on my own research and study through different sources, and hope this is a useful resource for you!
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