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Writer's pictureVeenu Pareek

What is Exfoliation

Updated: May 5, 2021


What is Exfoliation
Exfoliation is Important

When you find your skin lacks the much-loved visage, know that your skin needs to be exfoliated. Optimal exfoliation to your skincare routine may offer a healthy glow and youthful skin, as well as help with several other skin-related issues.


A lot of people like me (well, before I wrote this blog) don't know where to start. So, I'm here with most of the information I've learned and found in my research on this topic. Let's start with a step-by-step question, comes to anyone's mind.

What is exfoliation?

The meaning of exfoliation is to remove dead skin cells from the top of the epidermis or skin surface. This can be done using any granular substance, chemicals, or any other tools used for exfoliation.


As per dictionary, exfoliation meaning is to remove the surface of (a bone, the skin, etc.) in scales or laminae.

Skin cells are subjected to a great deal of wear and tear as a result of exposure to the environment, and thus cellular turnover occurs. Dead skin cells are shed spontaneously and continuously to make room for new skin cells. In an average adult, the cellular turnover process (also known as cell regeneration), takes around a month.


Suppose dead cells do not shed naturally or adequately. In that case, they accumulate on the skin's surface and contribute to irregular skin tone or even acne breakouts, leading to dry, flaky patches and clogged pores.


That's where exfoliation for skin comes into the picture and resolve it.



Does Exfoliating Help

I know most people have this question, why exfoliation is important for skin?

The simple answer is, if done correctly, exfoliation undoubtedly helps.

According to skin type, an effective exfoliation treatment gives you a new and radiant appearance and relieves skin problems.


The importance was recognized when it was discovered that exfoliation would enhance the skin's look and well-being in various ways.


According to the study, exfoliation can make your skin appear brighter and enhance topical skincare products' efficacy by improving absorption.


Meaning, exfoliation definitely helps if applied properly and with utmost care.




Benefits Of Exfoliation

Let's know more in-depth about benefits of exfoliation. Regular and guided exfoliation practice certainly has some of the great benefits mentioned below.

  1. Unclog the pores - Regular and proper exfoliation removes excess oil, debris and a pile of dead skin cells from the pores, leaving them clean and open. It further results in fewer breakouts and the elimination of blackheads.

  2. Provides higher penetration of essential skincare ingredients - Opening of pores further opens the way for moisturizing products such as serums and moisturizers to penetrate more deeply into the skin, which encourages these products' intended action and allows them to produce better results.

  3. Prevents acne - When dead skin cells stick around for longer, they block the pores and make comedones. All pimples begin as comedones. If your acne is mild or extreme, frequent and gentle exfoliation will ease and improve your skin and lightens your complexion. It also helps to lessen breakouts, eliminates germs as well as dead cells. It inhibits the pores from getting clogged with the secretion, mixed with dead cells and sebum, where the germs feed on it.

  4. Evens out skin tone - Many irregularities in your skin tone may result from dead skin cells that have not yet been shed, and exfoliation may help speed up this process. Exfoliation clears dark hyperpigmentation spots. It also smooths out the streak of flaky skin, light scars and fine lines with an outcome in a vivid, uniform skin tone. It ensures the outer layer of skin cells is safe, healthy and fresh, which helps you feel better.

  5. Boosts blood circulation - Massaging the exfoliant promotes the flow of blood to the skin. This, on the other hand, eliminates toxins and enriches skin cells. It also stimulates lymphatic drainage, which is vital for the immune system too. It pumps lymph fluids throughout the body to expel waste and contaminants from the tissues. It is achieved through massage, which enhances cell health leading to new and glowing skin.

  6. Increases cell turnover - The mechanism of cell regeneration slows down with age. It also means that the body becomes sluggish to lose skin cells and to develop new ones. When old skin cells begin to build upon the skin's surface, the skin can look dull, rough, and dry. When dead cells and other contaminants are removed from the skin surface increases the cell turnover. The emergence of new cells on the body makes the skin look clean and great.

  7. Stimulates collagen synthesis - Collagen is the precursor to the glowing, vivid skin that is amplified by exfoliation. Prolonged exfoliation from time to time can increase the production of collagen, a structural building protein in the skin. This protein also enhances skin elasticity, minimizing the occurrence of fine lines and subsequent sagging. As it helps to sustain the texture and tightness of the skin, thus reduces lines and wrinkles and inhibits premature ageing. In brief, a gentle exfoliating routine will make your skin look clean and smooth.



Types of exfoliation

If you choose to exfoliate, you'd better explore before you include it in your skincare regimen. It's important to know whether you have an underlying skin condition and all about exfoliation and how to do it safely so that it doesn't hurt your skin or lead to increased redness or acne breakouts.


There are two ways of exfoliation — Physical or Mechanical and Chemical. The type of skin determines the process to be used to exfoliate the skin. The physical approach uses abrasive scrub or granular substance or a mechanical method using an exfoliation tool such as a brush or a sponge. In the chemical method, serums and masks containing particular forms of acids, such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids, gently dissolve and eliminate dead skin cells without scrub.


what is mechanical exfoliation?

Any exfoliating product or procedure involving manual scrub for sloughing off dead skin cells is called a physical exfoliant. You might be using physical exfoliants from before, like scrubs, body brushes, muslin cloth, and loofahs, which are all traditional methods.

Mechanical exfoliation involves using equipment or hard material to scrap dead skin from the surface of the skin physically.


The advantage that you have of physical exfoliation is:

  1. The ease of doing it at home. Loofah, sponge, body brushes, bath salts, sugar, muslin cloths, etc., are resulting exfoliators for the body.

  2. It usually offers "on the spot" results.

  3. Not only does it remove dead cell waste, but it also increases the skin's blood flow.

Face scrubs have tiny non-coarse particles, such as seeds or ground nuts, for exfoliation. You may also choose a skin's specialist or beautician's microdermabrasion for even-toned skin.


It is crucial to remember that physical exfoliation is a stronger type of exfoliation and, if done improperly, may often irritate your skin or dryness and result in a trans-epidermal loss of water. A moisturizer should accompany exfoliation to reduce inflammation and lock in moisture. Also, confirm that your shop-bought scrub does not contain large, solid and abrasive particles that can scratch and rip the skin or give minor cuts to the skin.





What is Chemical exfoliation

This technique uses a combination of chemicals, such as mild acids or enzymes, to eliminate dead cells and several other residues on the surface of your skin. Most exfoliators are dermatologically evaluated and safe to use. But it is always safer to ensure that the substance does not cause any severe reactions by conducting a patch test first.


Enzymes are extracted from natural sources such as fruits and berries. Enzymes function similarly to acid-based exfoliants, albeit at a slower rate, making them safer and gentler.


Chemical exfoliators have dramatic but slower results. It includes Hydroxy Acids and Retinol, in combination with enzymes to renovate the skin. Some widely used AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) include Glycolic acid, Citric acid, Lactic acid, etc. Salicylic acid is a widely used BHA (beta hydroxy acids) as an exfoliator in the formulation of peel-off masks and serums.

Chemical exfoliation can be more irritating compared to physical exfoliation if it is taken for granted. When you're unsure how to introduce a chemical product into your routine, seek guidance from a dermatologist or another experienced and knowledgeable user.


Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

A category of water-soluble acids commonly extracted from fruits. Some well-known AHAs are Glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane, the Lactic acid found in milk, and Citric acid found in citrus fruit, to name a few.

Each form of AHA has its own property and can also help with:

  • Moderate hyperpigmentation, such as age spots, melasma, and scars

  • Expanded pores

  • Fine lines and underlying wrinkles;

  • The irregular colour of skin

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)

BHAs, on the contrary, are oil soluble. These acids reach deeply into the hair cells, drying out extra oils present and dead skin cells and unclogging the pores.

BHA products are mainly used for the treatment of acne and sun damage.

Salicylic acid, a popular BHA, is well- known as acne medicine, helps calm down general redness and inflammation.


Retinoids

Retinoids are known to be a type of medication obtained from vitamin A. They are used to soothe sun-damaged skin, minimize ageing and cure acne by shielding the skin from free radicals, and encouraging collagen development.

Some common Retinoids are Retinol, bexarotene and tazarotene. Retinoids vary in concentration. A piece of advice for the appropriate formula from a dermatologist is recommended.



There are few things to be kept in mind while choosing and using exfoliator:

  1. As this point is discussed earlier that facial skin is sensitive than body skin, so do not use a scrub on your face, which is meant for your body. Body scrubs are generally harsher and can result in cuts and other irritation on the face. It may tear delicate facial tissue as products created for your body can be harmful than products intended for your face. Body skin tolerates exfoliation of any kind, but when it comes to facial skin, facial tissue is more delicate than the skin on the arms and legs. The formula used in a facial exfoliator is not potent enough to achieve the outcome you're looking for when used on your body and usually don't pose any harm. So, you should also think carefully before selecting from the variety of choices available to exfoliate your skin and making an appropriate choice.

  2. The urge of using different products and impatience can cost us dearly in terms of harm to the skin and the pocket, so don't use more than one exfoliant at a time. The usage of several exfoliating products simultaneously and on the same area of skin can cause unpleasant skin irritation and other side effects.

  3. You might already be using certain prescribed medications or even over-the-counter products such as retinol or benzoyl peroxide creams, which may make your skin to be more susceptible. Exfoliating during the use of these products can exacerbate dry skin or even induce acne breakouts.

  4. Always choose an exfoliation type that suits your skin type. For example, if your skin is sensitive, dehydrated, or acne-prone, use a soft cloth as a physical exfoliator or a mild chemical exfoliator. Harsh exfoliation, whether physical or chemical, can be too irritating. Normal, oily, combination skin may tolerate stronger mechanical or chemical treatments. However, if you observe dark spots on your skin after bug bites, acne breakouts and burns, avoid intense chemical or physical exfoliation. Also, for people with darker complexions, extreme exfoliation can cause dark spots on the skin.

  5. To apply the product gently is very important. Exfoliation, whether physical or chemical, using correctly, decides how your skin is going to take it. Apply and massage in small circles for about a few seconds, then wash it off with lukewarm water. Remember, there is a difference between lukewarm and hot water. Never use any exfoliating tool like sponge or brush harshly, do it with a light hand, keeping short light strokes. Abstain from exfoliating if your skin is sunburned or if you have wounds and cuts.

  6. Moisturizer after exfoliating will be a good idea and a "must" thing to do. Applying moisturizer immediately after exfoliating will keep the skin healthy and hydrated.

  7. How often to exfoliate is always a question in everybody's mind, as I had this question once in my mind too. Your exfoliation depends on the type of skin and exfoliator you choose. To measure how often exfoliate has a simple rule, settling of the new cells on your skin should be the gap between two exfoliations. People with oily skin can exfoliate as often they need. It may be daily, alternate day, or once a week. However, if you choose to exfoliate daily, choose mild exfoliators. For all other skin types, twice or thrice a week is enough. For sensitive skin, once in a week may suffice the need.

  8. What time of the day, the skin to be exfoliated, comes to personal choice regarding setting it in your daily routine. You are the best judge to decide when to exfoliate - morning or night. I would not say afternoon because you might be working or not, have applied skincare product or makeup you would not want to disturb. However, you are always free to do exfoliation in the afternoons too. As I said, it comes to personal choice and comfortability. Personally, I would go for night exfoliation. For example, in the morning, when you wake up and find your skin looking tired and bland, exfoliate before beginning your day with a feel-good factor. On the other side, exfoliating at night will help to eliminate any remaining makeup or other contaminants. If you are treating any skin problem with prescribed medication, you should adequately gap the time between the product and the exfoliation.

  9. If you encounter any reaction, wash the offending product from your skin with water and a mild cleanser. Get urgent medical attention if you are experiencing severe side effects of an allergic response, such as chest discomfort, breathlessness, stiffness in your tongue, throat, or facial swelling. Stop using cosmetics or other products in the area until the annoyance is clear.

If you're not sure what kind of skin you have, or if you have any concerns about exfoliating, it's always best to see a dermatologist. The dermatologist will examine your skin and determine whether exfoliation is helpful to you, rather than being sorry for your choice.



How do you know you're Over-Exfoliating?


Healthy, clean and shiny skin is the result of regular exfoliation and a "must" practice. Exfoliation should limit to once a week as over-exfoliating make your skin dry, irritated, and damaged.


The fact is, the more extreme exfoliation you do, the less it needs to be done. Be mindful not to over-exfoliate, as over-exfoliation will lead to the same problems you have been attempting to treat.


The other explanation is that you will likely destroy newly cells on the skin's surface when you exfoliate your skin more often than cellular proliferation.

Over exfoliation includes the following symptoms-

  1. Redness or irritation: Too extreme or too repeated exfoliation can result in a red rash, itching, discomfort or a burning and tingling sensation on the skin. The skin becomes much more sensitive and prone to any substance used after that. Be cautious after a bath when your skin is wet. Use a soft towel to wipe by tapping to soak extra water and refrain from rubbing your skin. Choosing milder ingredients and using rich emollients will help.

  2. Dehydrated, scaly skin: Unnecessary and extreme exfoliation removes the skin's moisture and natural oils, making it dry. This condition can be soothed by using a good moisturizer or serum. Exorbitant drying also creates fine lines and wrinkles.

  3. Increased breakouts: Over exfoliation compromises the skin's protective layer, rendering it vulnerable to bacterial infections and increasing the number of new acne breakouts. For example, Pimples are a warning of over-exfoliation. These suggest that the skin barrier has been weakened and can also contribute to the inflammatory response.

Stop exfoliating and turn to milder products in such a situation. if your skin's condition doesn't improve, check with your dermatologist.



What exfoliator is better suited to my skin type?


Different skin types respond differently to exfoliation, and any form of exfoliation can not work for any skin. Before selecting an exfoliation technique, it is crucial to consider your type of skin. Before picking an exfoliator, there are several things to consider. Choosing the correct exfoliating procedure for your kind of skin will lower the risk of discomfort and help you achieve the desired result.


With age, the skin's total cell turnover takes time, so the frequency of exfoliation needs to be adjusted with time. I have repeatedly been saying that seek professional advice if you have questions about which exfoliator to use and how much.


If you know your skin type, you can determine and tailor your exfoliation routine accordingly.


  • Sensitive skin usually stings, burn or feel irritated. Using vigorous physical or chemical exfoliation may aggravate it. This kind of skin appears to respond negatively to most ingredients. It is best to consult your doctor in such conditions, particularly if you have skin disorders such as eczema and rosacea, before any new treatment is included in your skincare routine. Using a soft washcloth or finely grounded rice powder can be the right choice for exfoliation for such skin type. BHAs are usually less unpleasant than other potent chemical or physical exfoliants. In some instances, sensitive skin is a symptom of underlying conditions. Before using any new products, you can always consult a professional skin care specialist.

  • Normal skin is usually clear and not easily offended or sensitive. It can tolerate both kinds of exfoliating approach without any negative impacts. People with a normal skin type can choose any exfoliating method as per their comfort unless they have any allergy to the ingredients used in the product. It ultimately comes down to personal preference. To keep your skin glowing, exfoliating twice a week is more than enough.

  • Dry skin is flaky, itchy and rough, sometimes sensitive too. AHAs such as Glycolic acid will penetrate your skin, making it easier for your moisturizer to retain water in the new skin cells effectively. Skin becomes rough and flaky when it does not have enough hydration. Mild chemical exfoliators with AHA or creamy base scrubs may be used to minimize moisture loss in dry skin. If your skin is dry and not sensitive, try both and see what suits you best.

  • Oily skin appears shiny and greasy. If your skin secretes a lot of oil or sebum, you can use both physical and chemical exfoliators. Always start with a milder exfoliator for two reasons – first, the skin is not used to of an exfoliator, and you have to make your first experience a pleasurable one. Second, you don't know how your skin will react to this new activity on itself. You can keep excess oil at bay easily by exfoliating two to three times a week.

  • Combination skin: This skin type is distinguished by a blend of oily and dry zones. Dry in some regions and oily in another. You should concentrate on each area specifically and alternative products as required. E.g., one day, you may use a chemical exfoliator or scrub in oily areas, and the next day, use a low-level AHA in dry areas. So choose exfoliation mindfully. If you have pockets of oily and dry skin in the same area, both should be treated. Alternatively, you need to use a blend of both types of mild exfoliators. You may also use a flexible exfoliator such as Salicylic acid, which gently eliminates excess oil together with dead cell layers of the skin deeply.

  • Acne-prone - Severe acne can make skin burning and itching by intense physical and chemical exfoliators. If you are vulnerable to breakouts or have mild-to-moderate acne, buy products containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid or retinoids. These are considered gentle chemical exfoliators which can help reduce breakouts. If you have developed acne breakouts, be safe and stop exfoliating entirely.



Conclusion:

Your complexion, skin health and sensitivity of the skin will determine the best type of exfoliation for you. If you have exceedingly sensitive skin or severe acne, carefully select an exfoliating product and process. A competent aesthetician will help you choose the most suitable approach for you.


Use a manual exfoliating scrub with smooth, circular granules instead of serrated, coarse particles to stop hurting your skin. Be careful with the scrub—a light massage in a circular motion for 30 seconds is all to doze off your dead skin cells. Anything more than that will be likely to irritate your skin.


In chemical exfoliation, peels and masks containing alpha or beta hydroxy acids have a high exfoliation degree. If you have sensitive skin, you might want to look for more natural peels containing fruit-derived enzymes.



How To Exfoliate Face?

Although some people believe this enhances the appearance of their skin, it's not for everybody. If it's not done correctly, it can cause more harm than any good.

As we have discovered, the advantages of exfoliation are numerous, and there is no one approach that suits everyone.

As we learnt that the advantages of exfoliation are numerous, and there isn't one approach that satisfies all. Knowing your skin type before choosing an exfoliation method is most important, especially knowing if you have any skin condition (if any) such as hypersensitivity, dermatitis, eczema, rosacea, etc. In such situations, you should see a dermatologist or quit exfoliating.


Five simple steps to set your exfoliation routine either in the morning or night.


Step 1: Choosing the right exfoliator

When you know your skin type, picking the right exfoliator becomes of vital importance. See which part of the body you want to exfoliate. Do not use an exfoliator designed for the body on the face's delicate skin, and vice versa, as more rigid regions like your heels or elbows require intense exfoliation. You will also need to adjust the exfoliation formula accordingly.


Step 2: Using exfoliator in the correct way

Remove the makeup before using a physical exfoliator on the face, such as a face scrub. Apply to a clean, dry face and avoid the area around your eyes. Before using a moisturizer, you should apply a few drops of chemical exfoliator to your face in a few drops in the form of serum.


Step 3: Make the exfoliator work

Massage the face scrub gently on your skin with light wet fingers in a circular motion. If using chemical exfoliators as a serum, massage the serum evenly onto your face using dry fingers.


Step 4: Wash off

Rinse the face scrub off thoroughly with WARM and not hot water. However, a serum-based chemical exfoliator has to be left on.


Step 5: Apply Moisturize

The most important- applying a moisturizer immediately after exfoliation. It prevents any damage and keeps the skin hydrated.


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